Painting "The Hammers" and "Rhino" Part 2

I usually avoid painting and modelling hobby forums like the plague, but I like the people over on Fantasy Flight. I had forgotten how much until I posted the link to part 1 over on the modelling section of 'Dust Tactics'.

ZuggZugg and Psykostevo were kind enough to have a look, then take the time to share their thoughts. We are all of us agreed that this painting article about airbushing has really been co-opted by my unhealthy proclivity for weathering.

And now?

Some weathering, (and other stuff).

Step 1: Rusty bits!!!!

I splash a thin layer of MIG Rust Effects onto the patchy brown areas from the previous article. I allowed it to  dry, (for more than the 15 minutes recommended on the bottle) then applied a second coat. I don't want them to look too beaten up, just enough to show that they're fighting a war at close quarters so that's enough MIG for now :(

MIG rust effects. Liquid crack for weathering fanatics.

Step 2: Skin

I used Vallejo Carmine Red, Yellow Olive and Medium Fleshtone in various combinations. There isn't much skin on these units, so it doesn't take long!

Colours for the skin

 The first coat is a thin, 60/40 mix of carmine red and medium fleshtone into the recesses and lines of the face. The picture below is rubbish and fails quite spectacularly to represent in any way exactly how livid, the red should look. Essentially, it should look like the average 'Geordie Shore' sunbed victim after a particularly strong dose of vitamin chav at the local melanoma shop.

Not a great picture

 The next coat, (once the first is completely dry) is a similarly thin 60/40 mix of Yellow olive and medium fleshtone over the red areas, but not completely obscuring them. The green cools the previous layer down somewhat and gives the skin a (slightly) more natural look.

A slightly more healthy look. If you're very, very ill.

 Once that layer is dry, medium fleshtone is used to tidy up any mistakes and bring the colour back up to something approaching normal on the raised areas. Finally, Vallejo 'Flat Flesh' is applied to the uppermost raised areas in a thin layer. Once the layer's dry completely, (I recommend leaving them overnight, even for GW equivalent colours) a thin layer of GW Devlan Mud is mixed with Vallejo mixing medium, (glaze medium) and applied to the skin areas.

Skin's more or less done.

 Step 3: Finishing touches

The metal and armour areas are washed in a thin layer of GW Badab Black wash. I find that this ties the colours together nicely in a dark scheme as well as making weathering and decals look more natural.

Just been washed with Badab Black.

 Step 4: Basing

I apply a thin layer of Vallejo Brown Earth to the base with an old brush, taking care to apply only a small amount to the soles of the models boots and slightly around the edges. My goal is to simulate the mucky slush that results from a large, heavily armoured warrior trudging around in it.

Snow is only truly white on Christmas cards.

It's brown. It's earth. It's....Brown Earth...

GW snow is applied using a thin layer of PVA. It was the first time in my entire modelling history of 11 years that I used static snow and I really misjudged it. It more or less stuck to all of the brown earth, which was not what I intended. I wanted to leave slushy, muddy tracks around the soldiers' feet and footprints, but I can always go back later and add a bit more mud.

The circumference of each base was painted with GW Astronomican Grey foundation paint.

 

Done.

 
Step 6: Rhino's quiff (and eye patch)

Rhino is the only one of the models in this article with hair, so he gets his own section in the post.

I applied a couple of thin layers of Olive Drab as a basecoat; gradually mixing adding and blending Flat Earth up to Khaki Grey, (all pictured).

I focussed the extreme highlights on his quiff and above the sideburns. I was basing him on Marvel's Nick Fury.

Makes Nick Fury look like Nick 'slightly peeved'

The finished article:

I need an alternative to my camera phone...

I hope this was useful to somebody. The airbrush is a great hobby tool, but ZuggZugg was onto something when he asked if my weathering was masking the true effect. The answer is yes, to some extent. The main problem is the quality of my pictures. The airbrush highlights have given the armour a really authentic look to the naked eye and I'll certainly be repeating it with my other armoured infantry.

That is once I've finished the onerous task of adding brown earth and snow to the entire contents of the original Dust Tactics boxed set.

I knew I should have based them properly as I went :(

Thanks for reading.